Contents
Stabilsers
Needles
Colour Changes
Hotfix Swarovski Crystals to use with Machine Embroidery Designs
Stitching out Free Standing Lace
PhotoStitch
Colour PhotoStitch
Sepia PhotoStitch
Monochrome Linear PhotoStitch
PhotoStitch - How to stitch out design
Instructions will be sent to you with your design
Stabilizers
To obtain the best quality embroidery, it is important to use stabilizer.
Types of Stabilzer
Tear-away stabilizer is made from a fibre that will tear easily. Use tear-away stabilizer for stable woven fabrics. After stitching, tear away the stabilizer so that the small portion left in the back of the stitching will not affect the wear.
Iron-on stabilizer is an adhesive type stabilizer used for knits and all kinds of unstable fabrics. Fuse it to the wrong side of the fabrics with an iron. You can also use cut-away stabilizer for knitted garments, such as cardigans, and jumpers.Cut-away stabilizer is a non-woven fabric that does not tear. Cut the excess portion after stitching. Use cut-away stabilizers for knits and all kinds of unstable fabrics.
Water soluable stabilizer will dissolve in water. Use this stabilizer for cutwork or lace embroidery, and also for the right side of looped fabrics such as towels, knits or fleece to avoid loops coming through the embroidery. Also use as a backing when embroidering on felt to keep it from stretching.
Sticky stabilizer is a sticky paper used for securing fabric or work that cannot be secured in the hoop. It is also used for velvet and other napped fabric that would otherwise be permanently marked by the hoop.
Usage:
The stabilizer should be attached to the wrong side of the fabric.
More than one layer may be required.
Stable fabrics do not need to be stabilised and you may embroider directly on to it.
For firm fabrics, you may place a thin paper under the fabric, and iron on.
The non-adhesive type should be used when embroidering fabrics, which cannot be ironed or for sections, which are difficult to iron.
Cut the stabilizer larger than the embroidery hoop and set it on the hoop so that the entire piece is fastened with the hoop to prevent looseness of the fabric.
Adhesive (Iron-On) Stabilizer Place the wrong side of fabric and the glossy side of the stabilizer together. Fold up a corner of the stabilizer and fuse it with an iron.
Note: Fold up a corner of the stabilizer, to make it easier to peel off the excess stabilizer after stitching.
Ironing temperatures vary depending on the kind of adhesive type stabilizer.
EMBROIDERY NEEDLES
Embroidery needles take a hammering !!!
Before starting a project ensure that you begin with a new needle.
I always use a new needle for every design. Consider the number of times that poor needle is hammered into the fabric, more than 10,000 times depending on the number of stitches to a design.
At the end of it the needle is not really suitable for re-use !!
I always use Schmetz microtex needles for my embroidery.
I buy my needles in assorted sizes and use the needle most suited to the fabric on which I am doing my embroidery.
Always remember to have the presser foot raised when threading your machine, otherwise tension is added, raising it will prevent added tension and bunching to the first few stitches to your designs.
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COLOUR CHANGES
Colour changes are there for a reason !!!
I had one lady email me asking why her sewn out design did not look like the one I had on my website ? I had one question for her, ''did you by any chance alter the design at all in your software?'' ''Well, yes, I opened the design and saw there were too many colour changes. So I put the design into my software and 'sorted the colours' to reduce the colour changes''
All the colour changes programmed into the design were put there for a reason, the results of her changes completely changed my original design. I re-sent the designs to her and she emailed me again saying it has now stitched out perfectly and looks just like the design on my website !!!
If you want to change the colour sequence do so with caution because it will take away the first effect of my design !!!
HOT-FIX SWAROVSKI CRYSTAL DESIGNS
Kandi-Kane Applicator Wand
To embellish my Hot-Fix designs you need a Kandi-Kane Wand. This wand is very similar to a soldering iron ! It comes complete with a set of screw in applicator tips (for crystals sizes 2mm - 7mm) plus 4mm & 9mm Hot Spots which can be used to attach Rhinestuds, Nailheads and stones for which there are no tips available. The Hot Spots do not pick up they are just a heating attachment. This Rhinestone Applicator is brilliant for use on embroidery designs, fabrics, greetings cards, bridalwear, shoes, candles, ceramics, glass, quilts etc.
Easy to use. Select the attachment required depending on the size of stone and screw in. Plug in the Crystal Applicator and wait for a couple of minutes for the tool to heat up. (KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN) Place some Hot-Fix Swarvoski stones on a plate (shiny side up). Gently pick up with the applicator, wait a few seconds for the glue on the back of the stone to melt and place down onto your work, using a small knife and pin in the slot to help the stone out if necessary. If applied on correctly, the stones are fully washable. They also stay put on cards through the post.
This item is inexpensive and costs in the region of £19.99. You can also buy a large selection of Swarovski Crystals and really enhance your embroidery and other items. Once you have used this wonderful item, you will be hooked on it !!!!
This Application comes with 13amp 3 PIN English plug fitted. All metal parts get HOT so hold onto the plastic sheath. The Wand also comes with a selection of crystals.
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SEWING OUT FREE STANDING LACE
You will need:
- Water-soluble stabilizer
- Spray Starch
Paper Towels
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Glue
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No: 11 Sewing Machine Needle
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Fine Thread
Bobbins wound and ready for each colour used
I use Sulky Ultra Solvy, this obtainable from all good sewing machine shops.
Because you are doing free standing lace, you need to have bobbins wound in the same colours, so the back and front look the same. Chose very fine threads for this project.
After completing your sewn out designs, take the embroidery out of the hoop, and cut away the excess solvy, be careful not to cut any of the stitches. leave a small excess around the design.
Soak the design in tepid water for about 15 minutes and the solvy will soak away. When this is all disappeared, place your embroidery flat on a paper towel, and gently dab it dry, taking great care not to disturb any stitches and leaving the design flat on the paper towel. To add support to the design, spray the entire design with the starch. Put another paper towel beneath to soak up any excess liquid and leave for about 24 hours to completely dry.
Your design is now ready to stick onto your card using a little good quality glue.
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Colour PhotoStich Embroidery
Create a PortraitStitch from a colour photo, generating a randomised pattern from stitches, using multiple threads for a full colour result. Works best using good colour range, and well defined, differently coloured background.
Sepia Portrait Embroidery Create a sepia portrait embroidery from an old sepia picture, or create a sepia effect from a colour picture, to give a heritage look using randomised sepia coloured threads.
Monochrome Linear Embroidery Create a PortraitStitch embroidery from a colour or monochrome photo, generating a linear pattern of stitches using one threat of a single colour results. How to Stitch Out a PhotoStitch Design
PhotoStitch embroidery is reminiscent of pencil or crayon sketches. Multi coloured photostitch designs given an almost impressionist effect, which is why this technique is often used when digitizing art. It used very densely placed stitches often overlapping each other. PhotoStitch is usually dense. Ensure you chose the right fabric and stabiliser. Chose a woven fabric, of medium weight, evenly woven fabric. Iron the stabiliser onto the fabric. You can also use sticky backed stabilizer, and then hoop your fabric and stabilizer. I did this when I did the design of my little granddaughter, and the result was perfect. Hoop the fabric with the stabiliser, stretching them across the hoop tightly. There should not be any folds or areas where the fabric has puckered. Use No 85/11 needle, 40 weight rayon threads for the needle ad the 60 weight thread for the bobbin. Heavier fabrics it is recommended to use No 80/12 needle or No 90/14 Needle. Choose the thread for your work, according to the style that you want for the end result. Maybe black to imitate charcoal effect, or any hue or brown to imitate sepia, or blue for ink, or any other colour for your desired effect. When stitching out the Photo Stitch design in it is recommended that you cut the jump stitches as you go, as it will be very difficult afterwards - if not impossible !!! I also slowed my machine down to 400 spm and it worked very well. I used a Janome MemoryCraft 10001. STITCHING OUT COLOUR PHOTOSTITCH
When stitching out these designs it is very important to follow the colour chart, and please do not change the colour sequence.
The colours are put down in layers, layer after layer, they go from the lightest to the dark. This is why it is very important to follow the order of the colours as they appear on your colour chart which will be sent to you. When stitching out chose the lowest speed on your machine. The tension of the upper and the bobbin is very important, but this will have to depend on your make of machine. If the bobbin thread appears on your work it usually means that you have to reduce the tension of the upper thread. If your upper thread starts breaking, reduce its tension.
Please remember it is extremely important to trim any jump stitches after each colour.
This type of design is most suited to closely fabrics and is not really suitable for anything of too light a weight. The designs are suitable for decorating household things like place mats, kitchen towels, bathroom towels, tote-bags and denim cloths etc. You could also make some wonderful kitchen aprons using PhotoStitch designs.
This type of design can also be used on Organza, although sheer it is very tough, but you should use two layers of heavy water soluble stabiliser, it is good for making Greetings Cards.
POINTS TO REMEMBER
Choose the correct fabric and stabiliser and hoop them evenly and tightly.
Choose the correct size needle and ensure it is brand new !! No old needles, and slow the machine down to 400 stitches per minute.
Follow the colour chart that will be sent with your design
Trim the jump stitches after every colour. Don't be put off by this, as they are not as bad as they sound, and seeing a picture come to light is truly such great fun. It is completely different to any other embroidery design and really worth the effort.
Once you have gained experience in this type of embroidery you can try different fabric weights, although it works better with firmly woven fabric due to the density of the embroidery. They are great fun to stitch out and see it all coming together.